Halls Qube 6ft Lean To Greenhouse

• Black powder coated aluminium box section profiles
• Substantial aluminium frame with a 12 year guarantee
• Toughened safety glass in the walls
• 6mm polycarbonate glazing in the roof
• Neat glazing with black PVCu external capping (no wire clips)
• Extra wide 60mm integral gutters
• Low threshold doorway for easy access
• Lockable double sliding doors
• Trackless sliding door mechanism, no wheels and 'Jam free' operation
• 2 opening side windows included
• Flashing between the wall and the greenhouse is not supplied
• Eaves height 6'2" (1890mm) including base plinth
• Ridge height 7'5" (2300mm) including base plinth
• Door width 3'9" (1200mm)
• Door height 6'1" (1850mm)

POWDER COATED ALUMINIUM: The powder coated finish is more attractive than the stark silver finish aluminium greenhouses. The tough finish also has excellent weathering properties and retains its gloss and colour superbly. A good example of powder coating is the finish on your washing machine. Powder coated aluminium greenhouses have a similar finish.

TIPS IF HEIGHT IS RESTRICTED: If the height of the host wall is limited it is important to check the height available against the external ridge height of the lean to. The lean to ridge is the highest part of the roof, at the rear. At sites where the wall height is restricted it may be possible to excavate the base area in order to reduce the ground level. This is not always practical at every site as it depends on the surfaces and the ground levels. Be careful to ensure that the greenhouse door opening is unobstructed. If there are doors or windows in the host wall which are enclosed within the lean to you should also be careful to ensure that these can be opened freely.

PVC BAR CAPPING: Traditionally greenhouse glazing is secured in aluminium greenhouses using stainless steel or galvanised glazing clips. PVC bar capping is an effective alternative which is at least as strong as clips but neater and easier to clean. The standard glazing clips are replaced with full length PVC strips which hold the glazing along its entire length. PVC bar capping cannot be fitted in a greenhouse with overlapping glass. This quality feature is only available with large pane glazing.

TOUGHENED GLASS: Toughened glass is the best glazing material for use in greenhouses. It is around 6 times stronger than normal glass so it is less likely to break and when it does break toughened glass breaks into harmless small pieces. This makes toughened glass the best option for all the family including children, pets and the elderly. Toughened glass also strengthens the frame and it is heavy which helps to resist wind. Although size limits apply, toughened glass panes are longer than horticultural glass, with no overlapping glass and fewer joins. Where required, joins are neat in-line H-profile joins. Greenhouse glass is subject to lower visual standards than other more expensive glass and may include blemishes or imperfections which do not adversely affect the performance.

GREENHOUSE LOCATION: Ideally your greenhouse should have a clear space at least 18" wide on all sides, if possible. This ensures easy access for both installation and future maintenance. In reality this is often not practical and at many sites it is not needed. A reduced clearance is often possible on one or two sides. You should cut back or remove any nearby shrubs and trees. Remember to allow for future growth. The best position for a lean to greenhouse is against a south facing wall and outside the shadow of nearby buildings and trees. A sheltered position is best otherwise additional screening may be advisable. Plants need plenty of water so your greenhouse should be close to a water supply and the site should be well drained.

LENGTH AND WIDTH: Sizes are sometimes rounded to the nearest nominal size for ease of reading but the correct external wall sizes are listed alongside the price. The first dimension listed is the width and the second dimension is the length. The width refers to the sloping walls to each side. The length refers to the front wall. The sizes listed are the external wall sizes. These sizes do not include the roof overhang. Many other suppliers quote the overall roof size which is much larger. All sizes are approximate.

• Black powder coated steel base plinth (makes installation easier)
• Staging
• High level shelving
• Louvred vents
• Automatic louvre openers
• Downpipe kits
• Automatic watering systems
• Electric and gas heaters
• Thermometers
• A choice of composite decking kits

BASE PLINTH: The base plinth makes installation much easier. It is designed to be a portable and prefabricated foundation beam. The plinth features a flat underside to spread the weight of the greenhouse over a larger area. The base plinth can be placed on any flat and level surface including soil, gravel, decking, concrete or paving slabs. It is best to prepare a perimeter footing of concrete or paving slabs for the base plinth to stand on. However, with care the base plinth can be placed on any surface including soil or gravel provided that the ground is flat and level.

BASE ANCHORS - CORNER PEGS: The base plinth includes corner pegs which are designed to be buried in the ground or set in concrete. This is recommended in less sheltered locations. The pegs are used as angle brackets to fix the corners of the base plinth together but they also extend downwards into the ground. If your greenhouse is sited on an existing patio or paved area you can cut the pegs off at ground level. The offcuts can be used to as brackets to help secure the base plinth into the concrete.

VENTILATION: Improved ventilation increases the air circulation through the greenhouse for better growing results. Automatic openers react to heat which ensures that in hot weather the vents open in your absence and then close again when its cooler. Louvred ventilators provide a healthy air flow through the greenhouse to ensure improved growing conditions and better crops. Some plants such as alpines require more ventilation than others. If you are not yet sure which plants you are likely to grow improved ventilation will give you more versatility.

HEATERS: We offer a huge range of heaters so whatever your specific requirements we have a heater to do the job. Our electric heaters require a standard domestic 13 amp electricity supply. Our propane gas heaters require permanent trickle ventilation when in use. As an approximate guide, a 3kw heater will heat a greenhouse up to 8'x12' or provide frost protection only up to 10'x15' in normal site conditions. A 1.5kw heater will normally heat a greenhouse up to 6'x8' or provide frost protection only up to 6'x12'. Internal partitions are often used in large greenhouses to create a smaller warm room which is cheaper and easier to heat.

HEATING REQUIREMENTS: Heating requirements vary for several reasons. Location is one factor with more heating required in Scotland than in southern England and less heating required in a sheltered position. The design is also a factor. For example, dwarf walls improve the insulation and lean to greenhouses absorb warmth from the existing wall. Another factor is the materials used. Polycarbonate greenhouses retain heat better than glass and wooden greenhouses retain heat better than metal greenhouses. We recommend you to buy a bigger heater than you need - you can always turn it down.

RECYCLED PLASTIC BASE KITS: Our durable eco-grid and eco-paving base kits are a practical and affordable alternative to slabs or concrete. Lightweight and easy to install within a few minutes, these 100% recycled polypropylene pavers simply click together with no fixings needed. The interlocking design ensures greater rigidity. Designed to spread weight, our plastic bases are self draining and fully relocatable, unlike paving or concrete. A fully paved base has no soil inside the greenhouse. Alternatively, a perimeter base features a single row of pavers laid around the perimeter of the greenhouse with soil inside. You can also add a footpath in the centre of a perimeter base. The base is normally at least 2" or 50mm larger than your building. Where space permits the base is normally laid full size but if required in a tight location our plastic pavers can be cut. Fast delivery within 3-5 days ensures that you can start work quickly.

ECO-GRID BASE KITS: Eco-grids are recommended if the sub-base is soil, sand or pea shingle but not on hard surfaces such as concrete, because the underside is not flat. Integral pegs on the underside help to level the base grids more easily in soil or sand or shingle. Our eco-grid plastic bases can support up to 200 tonnes per square metre. We supply exactly the same eco-grids for use in driveways and carparks. Each eco-grid is 472mm x 472mm and 40mm thick with an immensely strong 60x60mm hexagonal cell structure. The kits include weed control membrane which is laid below the pavers. Extensive preparation is not normally required. First the ground is levelled and then the membrane is laid directly on the soil. The pavers are laid on the membrane or on a thin layer of sand or pea shingle. The pavers should be backfilled with gravel or pea shingle which is not supplied. Approximately 15-20kg of shingle is required per paver. We recommend checking this with your supplier or, if you can, buy less gravel than you need to start with.

ECO-PAVING KITS - BASES, FLOORS AND FOOTPATHS: This durable floor kit is a practical and affordable alternative to slabs or concrete. Easy to install within a few minutes, these recycled polypropylene pavers simply click together with no fixings needed. The pavers are easily prised apart so the floor is even quicker to remove if required. Eco-paving is recommended if the sub-base is a hard surface such as concrete or paving slabs, because the pavers feature a flat and level underside. Our eco-paving is less brittle than concrete paving slabs, with a strong supporting structure. The surface looks and feels similar to pressed concrete slabs, with a slightly textured finish. Each eco-paver is 385mm x 385mm and 40mm thick. The pavers are quickly and easily laid over an existing hard surface. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. The kits include weed control membrane which can be laid below the pavers. Each paver should be fully supported. Eco-pavers can be used to build a perimeter base but care is required to provide a solid sub-base. Ideally the sub-base should be concrete or a similar hard surface.

The Eco-paving internal floor sometimes fits comfortably inside the greenhouse with a few inches to spare. Sometimes it is overlength but it can be cut to fit. The finished floor is self draining and suitable for wheelbarrows and wheelchairs. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. Each paver should be fully supported.

A durable Eco-paving footpath is inexpensive and easy to install inside any greenhouse. The footpath is normally laid inside the greenhouse after the assembly is completed. The kit sometimes fits comfortably inside the greenhouse with a few inches to spare. Sometimes it is overlength but it can be cut to fit. Designed to spread weight, the finished floor or footpath is self draining and suitable for wheelbarrows. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. Each paver should be fully supported.

WPC COMPOSITE DECKING KITS: This superb quality WPC wood plastic composite decking closely resembles real wood, with the same look and feel. However, it is virtually maintenance free and it will never rot. At a glance it is difficult to tell the difference between this composite material and real timber decking with a stained finish. Furthermore, the similarities are not skin deep like a thin veneer. The realistic finish has a fibrous surface which looks similar to the grain of real wood. This synthetic composite is also heavier and stronger than real wood. The strength, durability and lack of maintenance make this superb decking a popular choice with pensioners and discerning commercial buyers such as care homes. Occasional cleaning with soapy water normally restores the original appearance. If any dirt or stains become ingrained after prolonged neglect even the most stubborn marks can be cleaned with a pressure washer.

Our WPC composite decking is a revolutionary material which provides all the benefits of real wood without the maintenance. It can be left outside uncovered all year round. Unlike real wood this synthetic wood is a weatherproof material with no knots, splinters, machining marks or other imperfections. It will never develop splits or shakes and no sap will ever ooze out of it. Our wood plastic composite is an equal mixture of real wood and recycled plastic. Even the wood is a mixture of sawdust and unusable offcuts, so it is the ultimate environmentally friendly alternative to wood. The colour pigments are mixed in before the powdered composite is moulded into shape, so the colour runs all the way through the finished product. The boards are completely impervious to water. The boards can be sawn, drilled and screwed, just like real wood. You can fix it with standard woodscrews. Being heavier and denser than real wood, screw fixings are actually stronger in composite boards.