Aluminium Lean To Greenhouse 145 - Green, Toughened Glass, Base Included

• Toughened safety glass included
• Green powder coated aluminium greenhouse frame
• Green powder coated galvanized steel base plinth (makes installation easier)
• T-shaped glazing bars with a central upstand for greater strength and rigidity
• Full height glass where practical with large panes and fewer joins
• Single sliding door
• Profiled eaves beam with integral gutter
• The ridge beam features continuous horizontal grooves to retain the roof glazing more securely
• 6 triangular eaves corner plates, 3 per corner, to ensure maximum strength and rigidity
• Diagonal corner braces in every wall to provide greater structural rigidity
• Eaves struts at 2' centres reinforce the connection between the side walls and the roof
• 1 free roof vent
• Ridge height approximately 7'6" (2280mm) including the base plinth
• Ridge height approximately 7'1" (2150mm) excluding the base plinth
• Eaves height approximately 4'6" (1375mm) including the base plinth
• Door width 2'1" (630mm)
• Door opening width 1'11" (590mm)
• Door height 5'8" (1740mm)
• Greenhouse width 1270mm (4'2")
• Greenhouse length 1920mm or 2540mm (6'4" or 8'4")

TOUGHENED GLASS: Toughened glass is the best glazing material for use in greenhouses. It is around 6 times stronger than normal glass so it is less likely to break and when it does break toughened glass breaks into harmless small pieces. This makes toughened glass the best option for all the family including children, pets and the elderly. Toughened glass also strengthens the frame and it is heavy which helps to resist wind. Full height toughened glass is supplied in larger sizes than horticultural glass with no overlapping glass.

POWDER COATED ALUMINIUM: The powder coated finish is more attractive than the stark silver finish aluminium greenhouses. The tough finish also has excellent weathering properties and retains its gloss and colour superbly. A good example of powder coating is the finish on your washing machine. Powder coated aluminium greenhouses have a similar finish.

BASE PLINTH: The base plinth makes installation much easier. It is designed to be a portable and prefabricated foundation beam. The plinth features a flat underside to spread the weight of the greenhouse over a larger area. The base plinth can be placed on any flat and level surface including soil, gravel, decking, concrete or paving slabs. It is best to prepare a perimeter footing of concrete or paving slabs for the base plinth to stand on. However, with care the base plinth can be placed on any surface including soil or gravel provided that the ground is flat and level.

GREENHOUSE LOCATION: Ideally your greenhouse should have a clear space at least 18" wide on all sides, if possible. This ensures easy access for both installation and future maintenance. In reality this is often not practical and at many sites it is not needed. A reduced clearance is often possible on one or two sides. You should cut back or remove any nearby shrubs and trees. Remember to allow for future growth. The best position for a lean to greenhouse is against a south facing wall and outside the shadow of nearby buildings and trees. A sheltered position is best otherwise additional screening may be advisable. Plants need plenty of water so your greenhouse should be close to a water supply and the site should be well drained.

TIPS IF HEIGHT IS RESTRICTED: At sites where the wall height is restricted it may be possible to excavate the base area in order to reduce the ground level. This is not always practical at every site as it depends on the surfaces. It may also be possible to partially bury the base plinth or cills in the ground. This is best done after the greenhouse has been delivered, so you can use the actual greenhouse components for reference. You can use the cill components to ensure that the door opening is unobstructed, also to ensure that you excavate in exactly the right area. It is normally possible to gain a couple of extra inches (50mm) in this way which effectively reduces the overall ridge height.

LENGTH AND WIDTH: The external wall sizes are listed alongside the price. The first dimension listed is the width and the second dimension is the length. The width refers to the sloping walls to each side. The length refers to the front wall. The sizes listed are the external wall sizes. These sizes do not include the roof overhang. Many other suppliers quote the overall roof size which is much larger.

• Fast delivery or delay the delivery until you're ready at the same price
• The door can be positioned in the left or right end wall and does not need to be specified when ordering the greenhouse
• Staging
• Freestanding shelf units
• Downpipe kits
• Automatic roof vent opener
• Base anchor kits
• Durable plastic floor or footpath with interlocking polypropylene tiles, assembled within a few minutes
• Water butt

GREENHOUSE ACCESSORIES - ALWAYS IN STOCK: As a specialist greenhouse supplier, established since 1981, we pride ourselves on supplying more options and accessories than other suppliers. All of our greenhouse accessories are always in stock all the time. Many accesories are only available when you buy the greenhouse and not available separately. However, we always make an exception for one of our customers - if you purchased your greenhouse from us we will always supply any accessory you need at any time, even many years afterwards.

BASE ANCHOR FIXING KITS - FOR SOIL OR CONCRETE: This kit makes it easy to fix your greenhouse down securely into concrete, paving slabs, decking or even soil. The brackets are profiled to grip the inside of the greenhouse base plinth with fixing holes on the inside. The brackets are fixed from inside the greenhouse with coach screws fixed down into the concrete, paving slabs or decking. If you want to site your greenhouse on soil you will need a concrete trench around the perimeter or smaller pockets of concrete into which the brackets can be fixed. You can fix the base plinth down with screws and wall plugs but it is much easier with our profiled brackets. Fixing the greenhouse down is recommended at all sites. The kit includes:

• Profiled anchor brackets - shaped to grip the inside of the greenhouse base plinth, with predrilled fixing holes
• Masonry drill bit - used to drill the correct size hole in concrete or paving slabs
• Zinc plated coachscrews - supplied complete with washers and plugs to ensure a neat easy fit

HEATERS: We offer a huge range of heaters so whatever your specific requirements we have a heater to do the job. Our electric heaters require a standard domestic 13 amp electricity supply. Our propane gas heaters require permanent trickle ventilation when in use. As an approximate guide, a 3kw heater will heat a greenhouse up to 8'x12' or provide frost protection only up to 10'x15' in normal site conditions. A 1.5kw heater will normally heat a greenhouse up to 6'x8' or provide frost protection only up to 6'x12'. Internal partitions are often used in large greenhouses to create a smaller warm room which is cheaper and easier to heat.

HEATING REQUIREMENTS: Heating requirements vary for several reasons. Location is one factor with more heating required in Scotland than in southern England and less heating required in a sheltered position. The design is also a factor. For example, dwarf walls improve the insulation and lean to greenhouses absorb warmth from the existing wall. Another factor is the materials used. Polycarbonate greenhouses retain heat better than glass and wooden greenhouses retain heat better than metal greenhouses. We recommend you to buy a bigger heater than you need - you can always turn it down.

RECYCLED PLASTIC BASE KITS: Our durable eco-grid and eco-paving base kits are a practical and affordable alternative to slabs or concrete. Lightweight and easy to install within a few minutes, these 100% recycled polypropylene pavers simply click together with no fixings needed. The interlocking design ensures greater rigidity. Designed to spread weight, our plastic bases are self draining and fully relocatable, unlike paving or concrete. A fully paved base has no soil inside the greenhouse. Alternatively, a perimeter base features a single row of pavers laid around the perimeter of the greenhouse with soil inside. You can also add a footpath in the centre of a perimeter base. The base is normally at least 2" or 50mm larger than your building. Where space permits the base is normally laid full size but if required in a tight location our plastic pavers can be cut. Fast delivery within 3-5 days ensures that you can start work quickly.

ECO-GRID BASE KITS: Eco-grids are recommended if the sub-base is soil, sand or pea shingle but not on hard surfaces such as concrete, because the underside is not flat. Integral pegs on the underside help to level the base grids more easily in soil or sand or shingle. Our eco-grid plastic bases can support up to 200 tonnes per square metre. We supply exactly the same eco-grids for use in driveways and carparks. Each eco-grid is 472mm x 472mm and 40mm thick with an immensely strong 60x60mm hexagonal cell structure. The kits include weed control membrane which is laid below the pavers. Extensive preparation is not normally required. First the ground is levelled and then the membrane is laid directly on the soil. The pavers are laid on the membrane or on a thin layer of sand or pea shingle. The pavers should be backfilled with gravel or pea shingle which is not supplied. Approximately 15-20kg of shingle is required per paver. We recommend checking this with your supplier or, if you can, buy less gravel than you need to start with.

ECO-PAVING KITS - BASES, FLOORS AND FOOTPATHS: This durable floor kit is a practical and affordable alternative to slabs or concrete. Easy to install within a few minutes, these recycled polypropylene pavers simply click together with no fixings needed. The pavers are easily prised apart so the floor is even quicker to remove if required. Eco-paving is recommended if the sub-base is a hard surface such as concrete or paving slabs, because the pavers feature a flat and level underside. Our eco-paving is less brittle than concrete paving slabs, with a strong supporting structure. The surface looks and feels similar to pressed concrete slabs, with a slightly textured finish. Each eco-paver is 385mm x 385mm and 40mm thick. The pavers are quickly and easily laid over an existing hard surface. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. The kits include weed control membrane which can be laid below the pavers. Each paver should be fully supported. Eco-pavers can be used to build a perimeter base but care is required to provide a solid sub-base. Ideally the sub-base should be concrete or a similar hard surface.

The Eco-paving internal floor sometimes fits comfortably inside the greenhouse with a few inches to spare. Sometimes it is overlength but it can be cut to fit. The finished floor is self draining and suitable for wheelbarrows and wheelchairs. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. Each paver should be fully supported.

A durable Eco-paving footpath is inexpensive and easy to install inside any greenhouse. The footpath is normally laid inside the greenhouse after the assembly is completed. The kit sometimes fits comfortably inside the greenhouse with a few inches to spare. Sometimes it is overlength but it can be cut to fit. Designed to spread weight, the finished floor or footpath is self draining and suitable for wheelbarrows. Laying eco-paving directly on soil is not recommended. Eco-pavers can be laid on a layer of gravel or pea shingle if it is carefully compacted and levelled. Each paver should be fully supported.